Luxor – Page 2

The first pylon in the mortuary temple at Medinet Habu.

Our tour of the Theban Necropolis continued today with our first stop being the Ramesseum, the funerary temple of Ramses II. In many ways this was like other temples we have visited except this has the remains of a 60+ foot colossal statue of Ramses II. Mohamed told us that this stone had to be transported from Aswan, this type of stone was not available nearby. Weighing more than 1000 tons, the effort to create and move is beyond remarkable. Like I said before Ramses II’s ego must have been off scale.

That Well of Souls has to be here somewhere... — That Well of Souls has to be here somewhere…

Statues of Ramses II at the entrance to the temple.

Remains of the 1000 ton statue of Ramses II.

Next we visited the Valley of the Queens where the wives of pharaohs were buried. In ancient times it was known as Ta-Set-Neferu which translates as “the place of beauty.” If that is not diplomacy I don’t know what is.

Many of the high-ranking wives of the Pharoahs are buried here, the most famous being Nefertari, first wife of Ramses II. Her tomb is quite striking.

Inside Nefertari's tomb — Inside Nefertari’s tomb

We also visited Ramses III’s wife Queen Tyti’s Tomb, hers in worse condition most likely to her being involved in the conspiracy that killed her husband. A betrayer of the throne is not well treated!

Inside Queen Tyti's Tomb — Inside Queen Tyti’s Tomb

Last stop in this valley was in the Amunherkhepeshef’s tomb, a son of Ramses III who passed at a young age.

Inside Amunherkhepeshef's tomb — Inside Amunherkhepeshef’s tomb

Amunherkhepeshef's sachophosgus — Amunherkhepeshef’s sachophosgus

A sales person loudly bargaining with another visitor at Valley of the Queens.

Our next stop was in the workers village of Deir el-Medina. The craftsmen who worked on the tombs were housed seperately from the rest of the egyptian population for security reasons. Also this allowed for the training of future craftsman by thru keeping the population concentrated. Info on life in the village was well documented by the villagers themselves, many notes (on stone) were found talking about transations that occured, ideas for work and gossip on affairs. Workers were also allowed to build their own tombs nearby and being artisans they are some of the most beautiful found.

Our last stop was at Medinet Habu and the Mortuary Temple of Ramesses III. One intersting thing we learned here was Ramesses III not the son of the Ramesses II (who put his name and image everywhere) but were separated by about 100 years. III admired II so took a similar name and his Mortuary Temple resembled the nearby Ramesseum. This temple had somthing we had not seen before, a gate-house known as a migdol.

Mohamed walking towards the first pylon in the mortuary temple at Medinet Habu.

In our visits to temples our guide Mohamed pointed out cartouches with Pharoah’s names, telling us that sometimes a newer Pharoah would overwrite the name of a predecessor or even obliterate the older cartouches. He said Ramesses III took note of this practice so when his Mortuary Temple was built his name was carved very deeply into to walls, columns making it impossible to erase. Like in other temples, parts of this one were taken to build other structures later. Too bad but overall a beautiful final stop of the day.

This statue is what Hollywood Oscar statues are based on.

The view back from what once was a covered sanctuary.

Alas our time on the Oberoi Zahra and we will miss the crew who took good care of us. We have taken up residence at the Winter Palace Hotel in Luxor. Built in 1905 it is a British colonial-era like the Old Cataract with thick walls. No sounds of of the city inside which is nice. Several web sites claim Agatha Christie wrote Death on the Nile while staying here. The Old Cataract in Aswan claims the same thing… A mystery…

One difference here in Luxor is the sellers are a bit more aggressive in trying to get our attention when we step outside. My new super power is ignoring…

Out for a bite. Just don't look anyone outside the restaurant in the eye, they will try and sell you a service or somthing. — Out for a bite. Just don’t look anyone outside the restaurant in the eye, they will try and sell you a service or somthing.

After Qena the Oberoi Zahra returned to Luxor where we will be spending the next few days. Formally known as Thebes, this location is one of the oldest inhabited places in the world thus is rich with monuments and museums. Across from Luxor on the Nile west bank is a place Pharaohs were dying to go to, the Theban Necropolis.

Our first stop in the necropolis was Deir al-Bahari and the Mortuary temple of Hatshepsut. Pharaohs would build two buildings usually during their reign for their memory, a temple where they could be honored and a tomb where their remains and items needed for the afterlife could be stored. A mortuary temple is a combination of the two. Hatshepsut went on a construction spree as soon as she took the throne and her mortuary temple with its ramp and three large terraces is one of the finest examples of ancient architecture to survive.

Illustrations on the walls of the Anubis shrine

A representation pf a united Egypt — A representation of a united Egypt

A view down the ramp looking towards Luxor and the Temple of Karnak.

I was suprised to learn that Hatshepsut’s temple is actually the third temple to be built at this location, the first temple was for Mentuhotep II and its construction was a break from the tradition of buring Pharaohs in Pyramids. Nice that they are, Pyramids, are expensive, labor intensive and easy targets for looting due to their being conspicuous. So new ways to honor the Pharaohs and protect the goods they would need in the afterlife that were placed with them were sought out.

Mentuhotep II's temple being reconstructed. — Mentuhotep II’s temple being reconstructed.

Mentuhotep II’s temple inspired the construction of the Mortuary Temple of Thutmose III and finally the well known Mortuary temple of Hatshepsut. The older temples are to the left of Hatshepsut’s when viewed face on, unfortunately Thutmose III’s was damaged in a rock slide and Mentuhotep II’s was also covered in debris and was rediscovered at the end of the 19th century with restoration efforts going on today.

Our next stop was Wādī el-Mulūk aka The Valley of the Kings. In an attempt to curb looting Pharaohs started having tombs created starting with Thutmose I. Inspite of its name, favored family members and noted officials are also buried in the valley. El Qurn, a peak that overlooks the valley has a pyramid shape which was important in egyptian society previously. Also the valley was rather isolated with a single way in making it easy to guard.

The Japanese Government gifted Egypt with a 3D model of the Valley of the Kings.

The model shows the underground shape of the tombs as well.

The modern entrance to the Valley of the Kings. What would the ancients think?

A view of El Qurn from the valley floor.

We managed to visit five tombs:

A few pictures are below, however to keep this post from getting too long I have created seperate pages for each tomb. Click on the links in the list above to view. If you see a tomb that looks incomplete it means the Pharaoh passed before the tomb was ready. Once the Pharaoh passes there is a 70 day process that runs and they are put in the tomb no matter its condition.

A visit to three tombs is included in your Valley of the Kings, Tutankhamun and Seti I were extra tickets which was nice because it thinned the visitor crowd out a bit. Can get a bit warm inside the tombs so if you visit dress appropriately and drink lots of water.

Illustrations in Tutankhamun's tomb — Illustrations in Tutankhamun’s tomb

Tutankhamun's mummy — Tutankhamun’s mummy

Crypt in Ramesses IX's tomb — Crypt in Ramesses IX’s tomb

Illustrations in Ramesses IX's tomb — Illustrations in Ramesses IX’s tomb

What is interesting is Ramses II has his name and monuments all over Egypt, you cannot miss his name or image. However when he picked his tomb (KV 7) location in the valley he chose poorly, it is heavily damaged and not open to the public.

Tomb of Ramesses V and Ramesses VI. Ramesses V dies young and the tomb was completed by Ramesses VI. — Tomb of Ramesses V and Ramesses VI. Ramesses V died young and the tomb was completed by Ramesses VI.

A view up a different branch of the valley.

Our final stop of the day was to see the Colossi of Memnon. The easiest stop, these two massive statues of the Pharaoh Amenhotep III stand at what was the location of his Mortuary Temple, once the largest in the area. The statues are heavily damaged, however due to this it was reported that the northern statue would ‘sing’ in the morning. Since we visited in the afternoon no music for us…

Tag: Luxor

The Place of Beauty

It’s Good to be the Pharaoh