The Last Ancient Wonder

Once upon a time… As our ancestors began to travel they began to recount the marvels that they saw. Eventually Seven Wonders were commonly identified and, unfortunately, six were lost to time. The remaining one, and the oldest is the Great Pyramid of Giza. At 480 feet tall, it was the tallest building in the world for many centuries. The Giza complex consists of three main pyramids, Khufu’s Pyramid (The Great Pyramid), Khafre’s Pyramid (prominent display of casing stones at its apex), the smallest of the three, Menkaure’s Pyramid plus a variety of smaller monuments to other important people of the time. In pictures Khafre’s Pyramid looks larger than the Great Pyramid but this is a deliberate illusion, Khafre was Khufu’s son so building a taller one would have been disrespectful. So Khafre designed his to be smaller in both height and volume but at higher elevation to give the illusion of being taller.

Heba told us it took 20 to 27 years to build each pyramid and the farmers in the Nile river valley would work on the construction during the Nile floods since their land was unusable at this time. Why not use spare time to contribute to the leaders project?

The Pyramid complex, (L to R) Khufu's Pyramid, Khafre's Pyramid and Menkaure's Pyramid.
The Pyramid complex, (L to R) Khufu’s Pyramid, Khafre’s Pyramid and Menkaure’s Pyramid.
Some desert transportation, now used for tourists.
Some desert transportation, now used for tourists.
Heba was very good at getting photos of the both of us.
Heba was very good at getting photos of the both of us.
Kim misses the cats so she made a local friend.
Kim misses the cats so she made a local friend.
Transportation between Khufu's and Khafre's Pyramids.
Transportation between Khufu’s and Khafre’s Pyramids.

The Giza complex is also home to the Great Sphinx of Giza. Made of one solid piece of rock for the Egyptians, the sphinx was a protector. Built to guard royalty, it was often found near royal burials and temple entrances. With the head of a man and body of a lion it represents the combination of knowledge and strength. There are multiple debates on the Sphinx first of all being who’s face is on it, Khufu or Khafre. Also what happened to the nose, some stories say Napoleon Bonaparte shot it off with a cannon however Heba said illustrations that date before Napoleon reveal a noseless sphinx so natural erosion is the likely cause.

Great Sphinx of Giza
Great Sphinx of Giza
Great Sphinx of Giza and the Pyramid of Khafre.
Great Sphinx of Giza and the Pyramid of Khafre.
Great Sphinx of Giza and the Pyramid of Khafre.
Great Sphinx of Giza and the Pyramid of Khafre.

A chance to visit the King’s Chamber in Khufu’s Pyramid was impossible to pass up for me. This journey is not for the faint of heart, it is a bit of work, crowded (the tunnels are two way) and quite warm. It was well worth the effort.

Getting ready for the climb.
Getting ready for the climb.
Entrance to the Robber's Tunnel.
Entrance to the Robber’s Tunnel.
The climb begins
The climb begins
Playing hunchback
Playing hunchback
Ascending the Grand Gallery
Ascending the Grand Gallery
The King's Chamber
The King’s Chamber
Proof I made it.
Proof I made it.

After all this it was time to leave Cairo for Aswan. We really wish we had more time in Giza and Sakkara as well, there was so much to see. Cairo is a very busy place and after five days soaking it in we are ready to move on. We will most definitely miss Heba, our guide and companion for the past few days. She got my number quickly and gave as well as she took. شكرا هبة!

Around Cairo

Today was about visiting sites in Cairo proper. Sita set an agenda for us however our guide Heba (who is with us for our entire stay in Cairo) suggested schedule changes to jump around the other tourist crowds. We put ourselves in her talented hands and we’re glad we did.

The Muhammad Ali Mosque or Alabaster Mosque st the Citadel of Cairo.
The Muhammad Ali Mosque or Alabaster Mosque st the Citadel of Cairo.

Our first stop was at the Mohamed Ali Mosque at the Citadel of Salah el-Din. Muhammad Ali of Egypt was an Albanian who came to Egypt as a military commander in an Ottoman force in 1801. He liked Egypt “more than the Egyptians” to quote Heba, rose through the ranks to become the governor and de facto ruler (Pasha) of Egypt. He worked to modernize many aspects of Egyptian life and society and was responsible for the introduction of cotton to the country, a crop I thought was native until today. Around 1830 he commissioned the mosque in memory of his eldest son who died in 1816. Completed after Mohamed Ali’s passing Situated high on a hill in the Citadel of Salah el-Din, is known as the “Alabaster Mosque” in reference to the materials it is constructed from.

Muhammad Ali Mosque
Muhammad Ali Mosque
The courtyard of the Muhammad Ali Mosque
The courtyard of the Muhammad Ali Mosque
The interior of the Muhammad Ali Mosque.
The interior of the Muhammad Ali Mosque.
The ceiling of the Muhammad Ali Mosque.
The ceiling of the Muhammad Ali Mosque.
The interior of the Muhammad Ali Mosque.
The interior of the Muhammad Ali Mosque.
Cairo from the Citadel of Salah el-Din.
Cairo from the Citadel of Salah el-Din.

Our next top was the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities. Originally this way our first stop of the day, Heba suggested going a little later in the day to avoid the crowds since most do make it their first stop. I thought it was pretty crowded but Heba assured us it was less full than usual. Full of unique Egyptian treasures, the most well known being Tutankhamun’s treasures including his gold funerary mask, nesting golden coffins and many other priceless treasures. Sorry, no pictures allowed of the more popular pieces. I had a chance to see these artifacts when they toured the United States in the late 1970s, and it was nice to see them again. If you want a laugh on the tour from back in the day click here.

Amenhotep III and Tiye Colossal Statue
Amenhotep III and Tiye Colossal Statue
Pyramidion from the Pyramid of Amenemhat III
Pyramidion from the Pyramid of Amenemhat III
Golden Throne of Tutankhamun
Golden Throne of Tutankhamun
Canopic jars of Tutankamun.
Canopic jars of Tutankamun.
Unfinished head of Nefertiti
Unfinished head of Nefertiti
Egyptian chariot. Not as portrayed in the movies.
Egyptian chariot. Not as portrayed in the movies.
Golden sarcophagus
Golden sarcophagus
Mummy of Ramses II.
Mummy of Ramses II.
Mycerinus Triad
Mycerinus Triad
Head from an Osiris colossus of Hatshepsut. She was one of the first woman rulers of Egypt.
Head from an Osiris colossus of Hatshepsut. She was one of the first woman rulers of Egypt.
Statue of Kaaper
Statue of Kaaper

Our final stop was the Khan El Khalili bazaar in central Cairo. A vibrant place, I was more taken with the architecture than the mostly touristy goods for sale. We eventually did find items we did like making our first non book purchase of the trip. Heba also recommended a stop at Khan El Khalili Restaurant et Naguib Mahfouz Coffee Shop for a quick bite where I indulged in a pidgeon stuffed with savory rice and Kim had a seafood Tajine. Originally we were scheduled to go in the evening however Heba suggested going earlier and I am glad she did, as we left a phenomenal amount of buses pulled up and disgorged tourists and we were glad to avoid the additional crowd.

Walking through the Khan El Khalili bazaar.
Walking through the Khan El Khalili bazaar.
Walking through the Khan El Khalili bazaar.
Walking through the Khan El Khalili bazaar.
Walking through the Khan El Khalili bazaar.
Walking through the Khan El Khalili bazaar.
Islamic architecture in the Khan El Khalili bazaar.
Islamic architecture in the Khan El Khalili bazaar.
Dining at the Khan El Khalili Restaurant et Naguib Mahfouz Coffee Shop. The staff made Heba wear the Fez.
Dining at the Khan El Khalili Restaurant et Naguib Mahfouz Coffee Shop. The staff made Heba wear the Fez.