It’s Good to be the Pharaoh

Tomb of Seti I (KV17)
Tomb of Seti I (KV17)

After Qena the Oberoi Zahra returned to Luxor where we will be spending the next few days. Formally known as Thebes, this location is one of the oldest inhabited places in the world thus is rich with monuments and museums. Across from Luxor on the Nile west bank is a place Pharaohs were dying to go to, the Theban Necropolis.

Mortuary temple of Hatshepsut
Mortuary temple of Hatshepsut

Our first stop in the necropolis was Deir al-Bahari and the Mortuary temple of Hatshepsut. Pharaohs would build two buildings usually during their reign for their memory, a temple where they could be honored and a tomb where their remains and items needed for the afterlife could be stored. A mortuary temple is a combination of the two. Hatshepsut went on a construction spree as soon as she took the throne and her mortuary temple with its ramp and three large terraces is one of the finest examples of ancient architecture to survive.

Hey a picture of us!
Hey a picture of us!
Walking up the ramp
Walking up the ramp
Statues of Hatshepsut
Statues of Hatshepsut
The festival courtyard
The festival courtyard
Inside the crypt.
Inside the crypt.
Illustrations on the walls of the Anubis shrine
Illustrations on the walls of the Anubis shrine
A representation pf a united Egypt
A representation of a united Egypt
A view down the ramp looking towards Luxor and the Temple of Karnak.
A view down the ramp looking towards Luxor and the Temple of Karnak.

I was suprised to learn that Hatshepsut’s temple is actually the third temple to be built at this location, the first temple was for Mentuhotep II and its construction was a break from the tradition of buring Pharaohs in Pyramids. Nice that they are, Pyramids, are expensive, labor intensive and easy targets for looting due to their being conspicuous. So new ways to honor the Pharaohs and protect the goods they would need in the afterlife that were placed with them were sought out.

Mentuhotep II's temple being reconstructed.
Mentuhotep II’s temple being reconstructed.
Another nearby balloon.
Another nearby balloon.

Mentuhotep II’s temple inspired the construction of the Mortuary Temple of Thutmose III and finally the well known Mortuary temple of Hatshepsut. The older temples are to the left of Hatshepsut’s when viewed face on, unfortunately Thutmose III’s was damaged in a rock slide and Mentuhotep II’s was also covered in debris and was rediscovered at the end of the 19th century with restoration efforts going on today.

Our next stop was Wādī el-Mulūk aka The Valley of the Kings. In an attempt to curb looting Pharaohs started having tombs created starting with Thutmose I. Inspite of its name, favored family members and noted officials are also buried in the valley. El Qurn, a peak that overlooks the valley has a pyramid shape which was important in egyptian society previously. Also the valley was rather isolated with a single way in making it easy to guard.

The Japanese Government gifted Egypt with a 3D model of the Valley of the Kings.
The Japanese Government gifted Egypt with a 3D model of the Valley of the Kings.
The model shows the underground shape of the tombs as well.
The model shows the underground shape of the tombs as well.
The modern entrance to the Valley of the Kings. What would the ancients think?
The modern entrance to the Valley of the Kings. What would the ancients think?
The ride in.
The ride in.
A view of El Qurn from the valley floor.
A view of El Qurn from the valley floor.

We managed to visit five tombs:

A few pictures are below, however to keep this post from getting too long I have created seperate pages for each tomb. Click on the links in the list above to view. If you see a tomb that looks incomplete it means the Pharaoh passed before the tomb was ready. Once the Pharaoh passes there is a 70 day process that runs and they are put in the tomb no matter its condition.

A visit to three tombs is included in your Valley of the Kings, Tutankhamun and Seti I were extra tickets which was nice because it thinned the visitor crowd out a bit. Can get a bit warm inside the tombs so if you visit dress appropriately and drink lots of water.

Entrances to to the tombs.
Entrances to to the tombs.
Illustrations in Tutankhamun's tomb
Illustrations in Tutankhamun’s tomb
Tutankhamun's mummy
Tutankhamun’s mummy
Crypt in Ramesses IX's tomb
Crypt in Ramesses IX’s tomb
Illustrations in Ramesses IX's tomb
Illustrations in Ramesses IX’s tomb
Descending into Seti I Tomb
Descending into Seti I Tomb
Tomb of Seti I
Tomb of Seti I

What is interesting is Ramses II has his name and monuments all over Egypt, you cannot miss his name or image. However when he picked his tomb (KV 7) location in the valley he chose poorly, it is heavily damaged and not open to the public.

Tomb of Ramesses V and Ramesses VI. Ramesses V dies young and the tomb was completed by Ramesses VI.
Tomb of Ramesses V and Ramesses VI. Ramesses V died young and the tomb was completed by Ramesses VI.
A view up a different branch of the valley.
A view up a different branch of the valley.

Our final stop of the day was to see the Colossi of Memnon. The easiest stop, these two massive statues of the Pharaoh Amenhotep III stand at what was the location of his Mortuary Temple, once the largest in the area. The statues are heavily damaged, however due to this it was reported that the northern statue would ‘sing’ in the morning. Since we visited in the afternoon no music for us…

The Colossi of Memnon
The Colossi of Memnon
The Colossi of Memnon
The Colossi of Memnon

Chosen of Places

Avenue of the Rams
Avenue of the Rams

The Oberoi Zahra spent the night in Edfu before continuing to our next destination, Luxor. We had another pleasant morning heading north punctuated by something to peak a nerd’s interest, passage through the Esna Locks. There are two barrages across the Nile in the city of Esna, one built in 1906 with a single lock (always open) and a second with two locks built in the 1990s that also supplies electricity. From what I have read this passage can be a choke point on the Nile for river cruises however we were thru both sets of locks in about 40 minutes. Of course the sales folks were present yelling to get the passenger’s attention to view their wares.

Approaching the first barrage in Esna.
Approaching the first barrage in Esna.
Another Nile crusier.
Another Nile crusier.
The sales folk hook on.
The sales folk hook on.
Entering the first lock. Don't run over the sales folk!
Entering the first lock. Don’t run over the sales folk!
Entering the second lock.
Entering the second lock.
Say hello!
Say hello!
Getting ready to go down.
Getting ready to go down.
Changing levels
Changing levels
Getting ready to go.
Getting ready to go.

We arrived in Luxor in the early afternoon, a cleaner and calmer city than others we have visited so far. Luxor was originally called Thebes which had a group of temples called in ancient times Ipet-Isut, “Chosen of Places” and one of the largest is the Karnak Temple. Built over 1000+ years by many Egyptian rulers this sprawling complex has much to talk about, too much for a blog entry. My favorite section was the Great Hypostyle Hall, built between 1290–1224 BC. The tall columns which are heavily inscribed and some have retained their paint making this place a true sight.

My favorite tale Mohammed told us involved Hatshepsut, a female. King and her nephew and successor Thutmose III. Hatshepsut became regent of Egypt upon the death of her husband (and half brother) Thutmose II due to Thutmose III being too young to rule. Also being the daughter of a pharaoh Hatshepsut eventually decided she should be pharaoh and made Thutmose III. Hatshepsut’s reign was a prosperous time and many major construction projects where undertaken including the Great Hypostyle Hall. and the erection of two obelisks at Karnak. Upon her death Thutmose III decided to have her name removed monuments. He also wanted to have her remaining obelisk (one fell in an earthquake) removed however the the priests nixed this idea. Instead Thutmose III had it walled in, which in shielding it from view also preserved its color better for today. Ahh, the impulses of the powerful.

Avenue of Sphinxes (Rams Road) and the first pylon.
Avenue of Sphinxes (Rams Road) and the first pylon.
Inside Karnak
Inside Karnak
Statue of Ramses II with Nefretari
Statue of Ramses II with Nefretari
Hypostyle Hall
Hypostyle Hall
Hypostyle Hall
Hypostyle Hall
Hypostyle Hall
Hypostyle Hall
This says Ramses II
This says Ramses II
Hatshepsut's once hidden obelisk.
Hatshepsut’s once hidden obelisk.
Inside the Temple of Thutmose III. It later served as a church.
Inside the Temple of Thutmose III. It later served as a church.
Inside the Temple of Thutmose III.
Inside the Temple of Thutmose III.
The view from Temple of Thutmose III.
The view from Temple of Thutmose III.
The Sacred Lake which is naturally connected to the Nile.
The Sacred Lake which is naturally connected to the Nile.
Ramesses III Temple
Ramesses III Temple

Our guide Mohamed grew up in Luxor and his primary school was on what is now expanded Karnak temple grounds next to the Avenue of Sphinxes, also known as Rams Road. Can you imagine going to school next to a place like this as a child?

Pretty much the site of Mohamed's old school.
Pretty much the site of Mohamed’s old school.

Our final stop was at the Luxor Museum. The museum is striving for fewer, quality pieces displayed well and it certainly does that. Mohamed’s favotite statue here is the statnding statue of Thutmosis III. Very intricately carved, it is a remarkable work considering the time it was made.

Amenhotep III
Amenhotep III
Thutmosis III
Thutmosis III
Close up of the Thutmosis III statue
Close up of the Thutmosis III statue
Statue of the scribe Amenhotep
Statue of the scribe Amenhotep
Thutmosis III sitting
Thutmosis III sitting
King Amenhotep IV
King Amenhotep IV
At rest
At rest
A sarcophagus built for ... one!
A sarcophagus built for … one!
Egyptian Mummy Coffin and other related burial items.
Egyptian Mummy Coffin and other related burial items.
Canopic jars for the organs from mummys. The falcon-headed jar (Qebehsenuef) is for the intestines, the baboon-headed jar (Hapi) is for the lungs, the ackal-headed jar (Duamutef) is for the stomach and the human-headed jar (Imseti) is for the liver.
Canopic jars for the organs from mummys. The falcon-headed jar (Qebehsenuef) is for the intestines, the baboon-headed jar (Hapi) is for the lungs, the jackal-headed jar (Duamutef) is for the stomach and the human-headed jar (Imseti) is for the liver.