Hill Of Gold

Over time other countries came to rule Egypt, Greece and Rome being the first two after the fall of the Pharaohs. Faced with having to rule this established civilization, the initial greek conquerors decided to embrace Egyptian customs and traditions winning the hearts and minds of the population. Egyptian priests continued the rituals, honoring the gods and, of course, collecting taxes. One areas where the outside influence was felt was in the the construction of new temples, a Greco-Roman style temples were now built for the Egyptian gods. Philae Temple which we visited yesterday is one and our next destination, Temple of Kom Ombo was another. Kom Ombo translates as “Hill Of Gold.”

Kom Ombo Temple
Kom Ombo Temple

This temple is rather unique, built two honor two gods, the crocodile god Sobek, and the falcon god Haroeris (Horus the Elder) it has a symmetrical design with a set of halls and sanctuaries for each god. The temple has rather magnificent columns, lists of calendar events and how the ritual for each are to be performed and, towards the back, an early illustration of surgical instruments. Here I got my first understanding of how numbers appear in hieroglyphics.

Columns in Kom Ombo Temple
Columns in Kom Ombo Temple
Ceiling details.
Ceiling details.
The altar of Sobek's side of the temple complex.
The altar of Sobek’s side of the temple complex.
The altar of Haroeris's side of the temple complex.
The altar of Haroeris’s side of the temple complex.
Carvings on Kom Ombo Temple
Carvings on Kom Ombo Temple
Food items, the bottom one is meal offerings.
Food items, the bottom one is meat offerings.
Carvings of surgical instruments.
Carvings of surgical instruments.
A list of festival days and what. offering is to be provided. The right column represent day numbers, with the rectangle meaning one, upside horseshoe 10 and the circle day. So at the bottom is day 8, about it day 7.
Back side of Kom Ombo Temple
Back side of Kom Ombo Temple

Our guide Mohamed told us that in trying to improve Egypt Pasha Muhammad Ali wanted to build a sugar factory nearby and in need for construction materials parts of Kom Ombo temple were used. Too bad for the temple, however the factory effort succeeded and the nearby factory is one of the largest in the mid-east.

At the temple there is also a cistern that the priests used to monitor the Nile and help set the calendar for all Egypt. The water level would indicate what season is upon them so planting can begin and, very important to the priests, when to collect taxes.

Cistern where the Nile is monitored (L) plus a containment for a captured croc. (R).
Cistern where the Nile is monitored (L) plus a containment for a captured croc. (R).
Whoa this is deep...
Well this is deep…
The Nile river god Hapi who is both a man and a woman.
The Nile river god Hapi who is both a man and a woman.
This says "Long live the King!
This says “Long live the King!”
Kom Ombo Temple
Kom Ombo Temple

Next to the temple is a Crocodile Museum which displays mummies of Nile crocodiles. Our guide Mohamed told us while visiting the temple that in the Nile monitor cistern the priests would put bait to lure in crocodiles which they would capture and use as the physical representation of Sobek.

Mummies of Nile crocodiles in the Crocodile Museum.
Mummies of Nile crocodiles in the Crocodile Museum.
Displays in the Crocodile Museum.
Displays in the Crocodile Museum.
Displays in the Crocodile Museum.
Displays in the Crocodile Museum.
Displays in the Crocodile Museum. Look at those knuckles!
Displays in the Crocodile Museum. Look at those knuckles!
A representation of Sobek in the museum.
A representation of Sobek in the museum.

Our moving home Oberoi Zahra took us to Kom Ombo and after the tour it returned to Aswan for one last night. While there we took a very pleasant felucca ride.

We said goodbye to our Sita. rep Hamoudy as we boarded the felucca.
We said goodbye to our Sita rep Hamoudy as we boarded the felucca.
Our felucca pilot Ayman
Our felucca pilot Ayman
The felucca sail.
The felucca sail.
View of the Nile and a signal tower near Aswan.
View of the Nile and a signal tower near Aswan.
The Aswan Botanical Garden
The Aswan Botanical Garden
A singer hooked on to us for a short. while.
A singer hooked on to us for a short while.
Ayman displayed goods made by. his family during the sail. We purchased a few.
Ayman displayed goods made by his family during the sail. We purchased a few.
A fellow felucca traveler.
A fellow felucca traveler.

The Pearl of Egypt

Philae temple complex on Agilka island.
Philae temple complex on Agilka island.

We have taken up residence on the Nile Cruiser Oberoi Zahra for the next week. Currently located in Aswan, it will take us to several nearby sights and return to Aswan before sailing down the Nile (North) to Luxor over several days. This is a comfortable boat, very smooth with a nice crew. Kim and I have been traveling alone for two weeks now so it came as a bit of a shock to come into contact with groups of other Americans. All I can say is sometimes the cliches are true.

The Oberoi Zahra
The Oberoi Zahra

We have a dedicated guide for our time on the cruise, Mohamed. Or as he called himself, “Yet another Mohamed” since the name is so common here. My kind of guide, we are off to a good start.

Our first stop was Philae Temple which was known as the “Pearl of Egypt”. Getting out to Philae requires taking a boat, where we departed from was organized chaos, lots of boat bumping to get out…

Getting organized in the chaos
Getting organized in the chaos
Away from the crowd...
Away from the crowd…
A bit quieter now.
A bit quieter now.
Approaching Philae temple.
Approaching Philae temple.

Philae Temple is called the “Pearl of Egypt” and is located south of the city of Aswan. It was flooded in the early 20th Century by the completion of the British Aswan Dam, now known as the Aswan Low Dam. Visiting was still possible either in a boat or in a drier situation when the Dam’s sluices where opened in the summer. Eventually it was decided to relocate the temple to the island now known as Bigeh. The islands in this area are extremely rocky so lots of dynamite was utilized according to Mohamed.

The first pylon of the Philae temple
The first pylon of the Philae temple
Inside Philae temple
Inside Philae temple
A closeup of the first pylon of the Philae temple
A closeup of the first pylon of the Philae temple
A view of the courtyard
A view of the courtyard

Built during the reign of Ptolemy II in Greco-Roman style, it is dedicated to the gods Isis, Osiris and Horus. The temple contains many scenes from the myths surrounding these deities. and other hieroglyphs. Later as times changed the temple became a church and crosses can be found carved in the columns. The temple was a bit crowded but tolerable. What was more annoying was the instagram types for who posing was very important…

Hieroglyphs in Philae Temple.
Hieroglyphs in Philae Temple.
Mythic scene in Philae Temple.
Mythic scene in Philae Temple.
Mythic scenes in Philae Temple.
Mythic scenes in Philae Temple.
Graffiti in Philae Temple
Graffiti in Philae Temple
A view of the column capitals.
A view of the column capitals.
A cross carved into a column.
A cross carved into a column.
A grind stone and the Kiosk of Trajan.
A grind stone and the Kiosk of Trajan.
River view of the temple.
River view of the temple.

Our second stop of the day was a visit to the Nubian Village just north of the Aswan Low Dam. This required another boat ride, very pleasent and requiring a bit of skill since we had to navigate thru the First Cataracts of the Nile. The water was quite active here and I can only imagine what it was like when the Nile ran wild.

More of a touristy place than a true village, we were lucky to visit on a quiet time of the day to see the families actually interact. We enjoyed a cool drink, I held a crocodile, had a walk around then beat a hasty retreat back to the boat in Aswan.

Mausoleum of Aga Khan III.
Mausoleum of Aga Khan III.
Passed by our former haunt.
Passed by our former haunt.
Seeing a relaxed friend on the way to the village.
Seeing a relaxed friend on the way to the village.
Passing through the First Cataracts.
Passing through the First Cataracts.
Currents in the First Cataracts of the Nile.
Currents in the First Cataracts of the Nile.
The Nubian Village
The Nubian Village
Our greeter at the Nubian Village.
Our greeter at the Nubian Village.
Walking through the Nubian Village.
Walking through the Nubian Village.
Walking through the Nubian Village.
Walking through the Nubian Village.
Hmmm do I want a croc foot?
Hmmm do I want a croc foot?
A bask of crocodiles
A bask of crocodiles
The big guy.
The big guy.
Croc holder
Croc holder
An old style Nile cruiser. Maybe this one next time?
An old style Nile cruiser. Maybe this one next time?