TED – Page 4

Inside the Temple of Hathor in the Dendera Temple complex.

The Oberoi Zahra sailed north from Luxor to the city of Qena and a visit to the Dendera Temple complex. This visit was different in several ways, Kim and I have been moving about the country (and on the cruise) independently to this point, for this visit all the passengers from the Zahra grouped together and sent in a police escorted convoy to the temple. We still had our own guide (Mohamed) and driver (also Mohamed) but we were told it was safer to move as one. Once at the temple a burly policeman greeted us and asked how we were doing, also a first. A low key, friendly interrogation IMHO. Later, other passengers said they heard there is some ill will between villagers nearby but no real reason was given and guide Mohamed did not know.

I thought this may happen at sometime, we read about visitors being escorted. Also a friend of ours, Carrie Schroeder is a Coptic scholar who visits Egypt frequently and her husband Eric Johnson told me that she was frequently escorted by armed police. So just another truth about visiting Egypt.

Ok, back to our story. First serious construction began at Dendera in 1995 BCE, the best preserved structure being the Hathor temple. Hathor is the egyptian goddess of many things, love, beauty, music, dancing to name a few. She was also the mother of Horus, god of the sky, and Ra, the sun god. The Hathor temple itself is well preserved with large columns and striking art with depictions of Cleopatra VI, Cleopatra VII (the more well known one) and her son Ptolemy XV who was fathered by Julius Caesar.

Temple of Hathor in the Dendera Temple complex.

The ceiling at the entrance to the Temple of Hathor.

There are also some small crypts that the adventurous can explore which was not available at other temple complexes we visited. Thanks for the help with the video Mohamed!

Video from inside a crypt in Hathor temple.

Old gray hair emerging from the crypt crawl.

Kim’s view of my crypt crawl return.

My shirt was damaged during my crypt crawl.

One interesting thing I learned here was about the the staircases in temples, why the one for going up is a spiral and the one for going down is straight. This is to imitate a falcon, spiraling up in the sky to hunt and diving down once it spys its prey. Fascinating.

Inside the roof kiosk where rituals for Hathor were performed.

The roof of the kiosk. — The ceiling of the kiosk.

Depiction of Hathor on the roof of the kiosk. — Depiction of Hathor on the ceiling of the kiosk.

Apparently Elon Musk has a fascination with Egypt and has tweeted about Dendera specifically the Dendera Light which represents creation. Not a light bulb…

The Dendera light, etching that fascinates Musk. No, it is not a light bulb and battery, it depicts the Egyptian creation myth. — The Dendera light, an etching that fascinates Musk. No, it is not a light bulb and battery, it depicts the Egyptian creation myth.

Our convoy forming up to head back to the Oberoi Zahra.

The Oberoi Zahra spent the night in Edfu before continuing to our next destination, Luxor. We had another pleasant morning heading north punctuated by something to peak a nerd’s interest, passage through the Esna Locks. There are two barrages across the Nile in the city of Esna, one built in 1906 with a single lock (always open) and a second with two locks built in the 1990s that also supplies electricity. From what I have read this passage can be a choke point on the Nile for river cruises however we were thru both sets of locks in about 40 minutes. Of course the sales folks were present yelling to get the passenger’s attention to view their wares.

Entering the first lock. Don't run over the sales folk! — Entering the first lock. Don’t run over the sales folk!

We arrived in Luxor in the early afternoon, a cleaner and calmer city than others we have visited so far. Luxor was originally called Thebes which had a group of temples called in ancient times Ipet-Isut, “Chosen of Places” and one of the largest is the Karnak Temple. Built over 1000+ years by many Egyptian rulers this sprawling complex has much to talk about, too much for a blog entry. My favorite section was the Great Hypostyle Hall, built between 1290–1224 BC. The tall columns which are heavily inscribed and some have retained their paint making this place a true sight.

My favorite tale Mohammed told us involved Hatshepsut, a female. King and her nephew and successor Thutmose III. Hatshepsut became regent of Egypt upon the death of her husband (and half brother) Thutmose II due to Thutmose III being too young to rule. Also being the daughter of a pharaoh Hatshepsut eventually decided she should be pharaoh and made Thutmose III. Hatshepsut’s reign was a prosperous time and many major construction projects where undertaken including the Great Hypostyle Hall. and the erection of two obelisks at Karnak. Upon her death Thutmose III decided to have her name removed monuments. He also wanted to have her remaining obelisk (one fell in an earthquake) removed however the the priests nixed this idea. Instead Thutmose III had it walled in, which in shielding it from view also preserved its color better for today. Ahh, the impulses of the powerful.

Avenue of Sphinxes (Rams Road) and the first pylon.

Hatshepsut's once hidden obelisk. — Hatshepsut’s once hidden obelisk.

Inside the Temple of Thutmose III. It later served as a church.

The Sacred Lake which is naturally connected to the Nile.

Our guide Mohamed grew up in Luxor and his primary school was on what is now expanded Karnak temple grounds next to the Avenue of Sphinxes, also known as Rams Road. Can you imagine going to school next to a place like this as a child?

Pretty much the site of Mohamed's old school. — Pretty much the site of Mohamed’s old school.

Our final stop was at the Luxor Museum. The museum is striving for fewer, quality pieces displayed well and it certainly does that. Mohamed’s favotite statue here is the statnding statue of Thutmosis III. Very intricately carved, it is a remarkable work considering the time it was made.

A sarcophagus built for ... one! — A sarcophagus built for … one!

Egyptian Mummy Coffin and other related burial items.

Canopic jars for the organs from mummys. The falcon-headed jar (Qebehsenuef) is for the intestines, the baboon-headed jar (Hapi) is for the lungs, the ackal-headed jar (Duamutef) is for the stomach and the human-headed jar (Imseti) is for the liver. — Canopic jars for the organs from mummys. The falcon-headed jar (Qebehsenuef) is for the intestines, the baboon-headed jar (Hapi) is for the lungs, the jackal-headed jar (Duamutef) is for the stomach and the human-headed jar (Imseti) is for the liver.