Chosen of Places

Avenue of the Rams
Avenue of the Rams

The Oberoi Zahra spent the night in Edfu before continuing to our next destination, Luxor. We had another pleasant morning heading north punctuated by something to peak a nerd’s interest, passage through the Esna Locks. There are two barrages across the Nile in the city of Esna, one built in 1906 with a single lock (always open) and a second with two locks built in the 1990s that also supplies electricity. From what I have read this passage can be a choke point on the Nile for river cruises however we were thru both sets of locks in about 40 minutes. Of course the sales folks were present yelling to get the passenger’s attention to view their wares.

Approaching the first barrage in Esna.
Approaching the first barrage in Esna.
Another Nile crusier.
Another Nile crusier.
The sales folk hook on.
The sales folk hook on.
Entering the first lock. Don't run over the sales folk!
Entering the first lock. Don’t run over the sales folk!
Entering the second lock.
Entering the second lock.
Say hello!
Say hello!
Getting ready to go down.
Getting ready to go down.
Changing levels
Changing levels
Getting ready to go.
Getting ready to go.

We arrived in Luxor in the early afternoon, a cleaner and calmer city than others we have visited so far. Luxor was originally called Thebes which had a group of temples called in ancient times Ipet-Isut, “Chosen of Places” and one of the largest is the Karnak Temple. Built over 1000+ years by many Egyptian rulers this sprawling complex has much to talk about, too much for a blog entry. My favorite section was the Great Hypostyle Hall, built between 1290–1224 BC. The tall columns which are heavily inscribed and some have retained their paint making this place a true sight.

My favorite tale Mohammed told us involved Hatshepsut, a female. King and her nephew and successor Thutmose III. Hatshepsut became regent of Egypt upon the death of her husband (and half brother) Thutmose II due to Thutmose III being too young to rule. Also being the daughter of a pharaoh Hatshepsut eventually decided she should be pharaoh and made Thutmose III. Hatshepsut’s reign was a prosperous time and many major construction projects where undertaken including the Great Hypostyle Hall. and the erection of two obelisks at Karnak. Upon her death Thutmose III decided to have her name removed monuments. He also wanted to have her remaining obelisk (one fell in an earthquake) removed however the the priests nixed this idea. Instead Thutmose III had it walled in, which in shielding it from view also preserved its color better for today. Ahh, the impulses of the powerful.

Avenue of Sphinxes (Rams Road) and the first pylon.
Avenue of Sphinxes (Rams Road) and the first pylon.
Inside Karnak
Inside Karnak
Statue of Ramses II with Nefretari
Statue of Ramses II with Nefretari
Hypostyle Hall
Hypostyle Hall
Hypostyle Hall
Hypostyle Hall
Hypostyle Hall
Hypostyle Hall
This says Ramses II
This says Ramses II
Hatshepsut's once hidden obelisk.
Hatshepsut’s once hidden obelisk.
Inside the Temple of Thutmose III. It later served as a church.
Inside the Temple of Thutmose III. It later served as a church.
Inside the Temple of Thutmose III.
Inside the Temple of Thutmose III.
The view from Temple of Thutmose III.
The view from Temple of Thutmose III.
The Sacred Lake which is naturally connected to the Nile.
The Sacred Lake which is naturally connected to the Nile.
Ramesses III Temple
Ramesses III Temple

Our guide Mohamed grew up in Luxor and his primary school was on what is now expanded Karnak temple grounds next to the Avenue of Sphinxes, also known as Rams Road. Can you imagine going to school next to a place like this as a child?

Pretty much the site of Mohamed's old school.
Pretty much the site of Mohamed’s old school.

Our final stop was at the Luxor Museum. The museum is striving for fewer, quality pieces displayed well and it certainly does that. Mohamed’s favotite statue here is the statnding statue of Thutmosis III. Very intricately carved, it is a remarkable work considering the time it was made.

Amenhotep III
Amenhotep III
Thutmosis III
Thutmosis III
Close up of the Thutmosis III statue
Close up of the Thutmosis III statue
Statue of the scribe Amenhotep
Statue of the scribe Amenhotep
Thutmosis III sitting
Thutmosis III sitting
King Amenhotep IV
King Amenhotep IV
At rest
At rest
A sarcophagus built for ... one!
A sarcophagus built for … one!
Egyptian Mummy Coffin and other related burial items.
Egyptian Mummy Coffin and other related burial items.
Canopic jars for the organs from mummys. The falcon-headed jar (Qebehsenuef) is for the intestines, the baboon-headed jar (Hapi) is for the lungs, the ackal-headed jar (Duamutef) is for the stomach and the human-headed jar (Imseti) is for the liver.
Canopic jars for the organs from mummys. The falcon-headed jar (Qebehsenuef) is for the intestines, the baboon-headed jar (Hapi) is for the lungs, the jackal-headed jar (Duamutef) is for the stomach and the human-headed jar (Imseti) is for the liver.

Edfu

Etchings of priests descending in the Temple of Edfu.
Etchings of priests descending in the Temple of Edfu.

Our moving home Oberoi Zahra has departed Aswan, sailing downstream (north). The ship is quite steady, you would not know we were moving if you were in a completely enclosed space. The soft rumble of the engines is comforting and disappears when you are on the top deck, up there there is a nice breeze to accompany the changing panorama.

Heading north on the Oberoi Zahra.
Heading north on the Oberoi Zahra.
The shore is lined with many sights.
The shore is lined with many sights.
Morning breakfast.
Morning breakfast.
Herder and his flock.
Herder and his flock.
Other Nile boats being assisted upstream.
Other Nile boats being assisted upstream.

Our next destination is the city of Edfu and the Temple of Edfu. Built in the Ptolemaic dynasty for worshiping the god Horus, it is one of the most intact temples discovered in Egypt. The temple took 180 years to complete, starting under Ptolemy III and being completed by Ptolemy XII. The pylons in the front are quite massive and are decorated with scenes of Ptolemy XII in battle and worshiping. The temple contains scenes of its honored god Horus and his battle with Seth, a bitter rival.

First pylon of Edfu Temple.
First pylon of Edfu Temple.
The pylons show scenes of Ptolemy XII conquering his enemies and worshiping the egyptian gods.
The pylons show scenes of Ptolemy XII conquering his enemies and worshiping the egyptian gods.
Our guide Mohamed approaching the first pylon of the temple.
Our guide Mohamed approaching the first pylon of the temple.
Tom, Kim and Horus.
Tom, Kim and Horus.
The forecourt of the temple.
The forecourt of the temple.

Like other Egyptian temples it eventually was disused and later damaged by defacing the etchings and deliberately set fires. The complex eventually filled with mud and sand which helped in preservation. It remained buried until 1860 when archaeologist Auguste Mariette began the recovery process.

Temple columns.
Temple columns.
A view inside the temple.
A view inside the temple. Note the fire damage on the roof inside.
The sanctuary at the centre of the temple with a replica of the wooden barque (boat) in which Horus’ statue would be taken out of the temple during processions.
The sanctuary at the centre of the temple with a replica of the wooden barque (boat) in which Horus’ statue would be taken out of the temple during processions.
Hallway inside the temple.
Hallway inside the temple.
Apparently ice cream and WiFi were available. In reality they represent a heart and ribs.
Apparently ice cream and WiFi were available. In reality they represent a heart and ribs.
Numbers in hieroglyphics. From the left the tadpoles are 100K, bent fingers 10K, coil of rope 100, upside down horsehoe (cattle) 10 and the square or single stroke 1. so 333,331.
Numbers in hieroglyphics. From the left the tadpoles are 100K, bent fingers 10K, coil of rope 100, upside down horsehoe (cattle) 10 and the square or single stroke 1. so 333,331.
Carvings in Edfu
Carvings in Edfu
The outside wall of the temple.
The outside wall of the temple.
Scenes from the tales of Horus and Seth.
Scenes from the tales of Horus and Seth.
Even in the narrowest of passages the walls were illustrated.
Even in the narrowest of passages the walls were illustrated.